Today’s planned paddle was to be on the St. John’s Far East River channel between Hwy. 50 and 46, a section I have yet to explore. Driving West over 520 heading to 50 there were already bands of rain coming in from hurricane Helena 400 miles to our West. I decided at the last minute to pull off at Lone Cabbage and put in here to explore Taylor Creek swamp. Although I’ve paddled and hiked Taylor Creek before, I never get tired of exploring any of the St Johns primordial swamps and Taylor Creek is no exception. The sky although somewhat ominous the rain is mostly light.
It’s about half hour West on the river into Taylor creek. Right away were into rafts of chocking water lettuce and flags. After 20 minutes thru this quagmire were on clear water. Even though the passage on Taylor is narrow the water depth is surprisingly deep.
To get the history of this section of river you must include not only Taylor Creek but Fort Christmas and Fort Taylor areas as well, some 30 miles, with Taylor being central. The 3 forts in this area, were built during the second Seminole war 1835 thru1842. There were only a few settlers here at this time. The main influx of settlers didn’t migrate to Florida until after the civil war. One family that settled this area on Taylor Creek was Tom Cox and his wife Julie Mizell Tucker Cox, AJ and RN Savage were also here and ran the Savage trading post 6 miles to the South next to Fort Taylor on lake Winder. There was a small community there as well from 1850 until 1905, including a Post Office. Today only Fort Christmas is still a viable community. There is no trace that anyone was ever here at the other two sites other than the Tuscana Indian midden which supposedly was where Fort Taylor stood on lake Winder.
The Cox Family lived on the north side of Taylor Creek where the old wagon Rd. or military trail crossed over Taylor, now Nova Rd. In 1837 there was quite a skirmish fought here. The soldiers were on the north side of the Creek and the Seminole Indians were on the South. They fought to a draw till dark and by next light the Indians had left South. Shortly after this battle Fort McNeil was built on the north side of Taylor Creek. Named after 2ed Lt. John Winfield Scott McNeil who was killed in action near Dunlawton, 11 Sept. 1837. Here too was another ancient Indian midden perhaps Tuscana Indians. Unfortunately, before we understood the importance of these archaeological sites many were used as material for roadbeds. Today it is illegal to dig or in any way disturb any indigenous sites.
Unfortunately, all the swamps on the St. John’s River have been diminished and altered with damming by the State for Big Agriculture, denying these living swamps a fair share of water.
Even though these primordial swamps are still a place of surreal solitude and peace. You are literally in a place time has forgotten.
Due to the rainy season and high water we’re able to get back further into Taylor Creek swamp than in previous trips. Where we had to abandon our kayaks and hike before, today we’re able to paddle thru. I imagine dispirited Conquistadors pushing this same brown tannic water ahead of them, while Ais Indians, bows drawn, shadow the invaders in dugout canoes. I hear a Pileated Woodpecker overhead, and strain for a better look hoping to see the white wings of an Ivorybill. But I know I am only dreaming the Ivorybill along with these ancient souls have left long ago.
With the rain picking up from Helena and the thunder calling we’re heading home. Enjoy the pics. With my good friend Ernie Green.
Mark Nathan
321-543-0373
St. John’s River Explorer
