St John’s River Trip – February 20 2023 From hwy 50 to Hatbill @ 4610:20-4:45Miles: 9.8Temp 64-79Full SunWind: slight to 15mph (by late afternoon) I’ve drawn the waters of the St Johns, called “Iliaka” by the ancient Timucua and Ais Indians.I have paddled her tannic waters for over 10 years and for hundreds of miles. Thru her spectacular river channels, her labyrinth of countless tributaries and timeless sloughs. I’ve hiked her wetlands and uplands where I couldn’t paddle and explored places hidden away. Her beauty and seclusion are why this river has the distinction of being designated an American Heritage River. Although I have paddled parts of the middle basin it’s the Upper Saint Johns surrounded by hundreds of thousands of acres of true Florida wilderness that I relish. The Upper St. Johns defined as the area from its headwaters at the Halpaliokee Swamp to Fort Drum at Blue Cypress Lake. From Blue Cypress, (hwy 60) to Lake Harney (hwy 46) is about 130 river miles with only a handful of ways in or out.Today’s kayak journey is from hwy 50 to the Hatbill, off 46. I choose the East side river channel in that I’ve never been this way before or know anyone who has. The main river channel is a good half mile West. To give you a perspective the St Johns River Flood Plain in this area is 7 miles across. (Salt Lake across to Bronson State Forest). Although there are hundreds of tributaries to travel many due to fluctuating water levels can be unpassable at times even in kayaks. As we pull up to Midway at hwy 50 Captain Derrick comes out to greet us. Derrick’s a river man as his family before. He tells us the main channel is West of here and I explain we’re going up this side have a chase vehicle at the Hatbill. He smiles and laughs. Be careful most people going up this side get lost. By 10:30 we’re on the water heading North. The river channel here is narrow 25’. Around the second turn two colossal Gators slide off the bank. In the next three hours we count an unprecedented 116 gators. Some are singles but most are in congregations up to 6. To witness so many gators is uncommon but astonishingly many are 10–12-foot specimens. There is one huge bull with a great head gliding along with me. Suddenly using his enormous tail he pushes hisbody literally into the air crashing the still waters. I don’t think he liked our presence on his river. I was only too glad to oblige. At 2.5 miles we take a hard right into a narrow tributary about 13’ wide.The route I’ve laid out will hopefully take us into some large sloughs on the farthest waters East and hopefully the elusive White Pelicans. It’s getting late in the year, by March most will have headed back North to Canada to nest. The tributary here is typical, with over hanging vegetation and branches. Surprisingly it is deep with point bars on the inside bends. This prohibits all access other than shallow draft paddle boats. We are blissfully alone with nature here. Thru this tributary into another and then another all the while wildlife is in full display. One more turn and then ahead we see a blanket of white. Wading birds at the mouth of the first slough. Curlews (White Ibis) Great Egrets, Common Egrets, Tri Colored Herons, Snowy Egrets, Little Blues… As we get closer, we are surprised by a flock of over a hundred Greater and Lesser Yellow Legs taking flight. Along with the waders the sky is full of the sight and sounds of these amazing winged creatures. I look to my left over a vegetated sand bar and there they are 60 White Pelicans resting on another sand bar further out into the slough. Typically the Pelicans are tolerant and other than a few already in the water most are standing. We stop and watch for a good while. The Yellow Legs and the other birds have gathered farther ahead down the slough. As we finally head on the Pelicans go from standing on the bar, into the water where they can now readily take flight. We’re to close now as most of the White Pelicans start to take off. With a 9’ wing span and 16-poundsit’s a sight to behold as they start down their water runways. In all with the White Pelicans on the water and the ones soaring overhead we count maybe 150. Soaring high overhead, wheeling and circling in unison we watch in awe. Other wildlife sightings: Great Blue Herons, Little Blue Herons, Night Herons, Green Herons, Wood Storks, Roseate Spoonbills, Purple Gallinules, King Fishers, Red Wing Blackbirds, Boat Tailed Grackles. One sighting of special interest was a small flock of black headed gulls. I’ve only seen them one other time further up on Puzzle Lake. In all, one of the most extraordinary days I’ve had on the St John’s. With my good friend Ernie Green. Appendage: I had planned to visit an ancient Ais Indian Midden I’d finally located last year thanks to coordinates by “Florida Trailblazer”. Unfortunately, due to low water levels this passage was not possible. Next time Ernie. -Mark Nathan